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Michel

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More than 24 hours later the English mustard seems to have bonded the pad to the underside of the bonnet quite well.

I will repeat this same procedure with the 300SE, which is also missing its pad.

Will you try American Mustard this time?
 

Michel

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It may be too runny to attach to the vertical bonnet. And a French grain mustard would probably mean the seeds interfere with the adhesion.

I guess you have 2 points there! :eek:
 
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c107

c107

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I went away for a long weekend to the blue mountains and took the 560SEC. I've now got about 2,200km on it and it has performed well. There is plenty of power up some of those long sweeping turns near the top of bells line of road. The new tyres and wheels no longer shudder at speed and the engine is very smooth.

short term on the list to fix is the transmission leak, which is hopefully an o-ring in the bowden cable attachment.
 
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c107

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I've been meaning to flush the SLS since I got the car. I did it today, along with the 300SE.

The fluid was worse than it looked, once you get it into a clear bottle.

48658063506_1634b9f9f1_c.jpg

48658063571_2d57d8fa50_c.jpg
 
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c107

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Today my job is to replace the dented lower pan...

I took off the lower pan, and as expected I found a piece of broken guide in there. One of the guides was broken when I had the chain done a few months back.
What I didn't expect was to find a large lipped washer.
Does anyone know what it is?
There was no gasket on the pan, just some black sealer that wasn't sealing all that well.
There was also some small pieces of broken black plastic.

48730667767_17dac5b87a_c.jpg

48730157988_f940fc82e4_c.jpg


From what I can see, no damage from the dented pan?

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Engine looks suspiciously clean. I wonder if it has been out? Engine number matches data card.

48730667967_62c9e4f491_c.jpg


Dented pan before removal:

48730670972_63421d54ef_c.jpg
 
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c107

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as I started cleaning the surfaces, I also notice there has been scoring on the upper pan, you can see to the right hand side of the oil pump as you're standing in front of the car and rear of oil pump.
I wonder how that got there?

48730560511_4169f5c17e_c.jpg


48730229543_3f9862c69f_c.jpg
 

Oversize

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I'm curious too!!! Please post the results!! What exhaust are you running??
 
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c107

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I'm really glad I went - I found out the car is running way lean.

dyno1.jpg

dyno2.jpg

It's consistent through the pull so I don't think its that the pump is not keeping up or whatever.

I will need to sort this out and wouldn't have known without the dyno
 

Oversize

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Seems a lot less than 300 now!! :eek::eek:
 

Oversize

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I must say I’ve seen all sorts of chassis dyno results over the years & most I take with a grain of salt. They either seem far too high or too low & never what I’d expect to see. Too many variables so it seems. As a result I only trust engine dynos since there’s no error via tyres/diff/trans/torque convertor.

However it’s definitely a good idea to get a baseline & try to improve things from there. Personally I’d ditch the kidneys & do for a custom zorst!
 

abl567

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The S500 has developed a rattle in one of the mufflers, a legacy of a low km prestige car. I'ts minor and I can't hear it driving but...

Should I do a cat delete and just keep the rear resonators? :cool: And maybe those remote valves that bypass?

Or maintain limo/grandpa mode.
 

BenzBoy

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Oversize

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Go for high flow aftermarket CATs since they work & they’re affordable. Delete excessive mufflers & bends. Only use flanges & no slip joints. A twin 2.5” with a correctly designed balance pipe should do the trick. Forget aftermarket exhaust valves since they’re illegal in most states (along with CAT delete).
 

Oversize

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Consider stainless but depends on how long you’re keeping the car...
 

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