560sec ece
- Thread starter c107
- Start date
- Thread Starter
- #23
First is all the stuff to do the chain and valve stem seals.
After Helmet's warning I did not get the Febi guides and went for genuine. I would have gotten a genuine tensioner, but they were over USD$400 vs about $65USD for the Febi. Also camshaft oilers.
I won't do this work, but have sourced all the parts for it.
Some other stuff to in the short term. New cap, rotor, wiper blades. Also the camcover gaskets and washers for the chain being done. Thermostat is so I have one on hand if needed.
Also some of the rubber breather hoses for the engine that have gone very hard.
SLS fluid for both the 560SEC and 300SE. I also have the filters around somewhere.
Longer term, new oil pan. Mine has a dent in it. Looks more like a floor jack than collision.
More leather conditioner, not just for the 560, but because I used my last bottle on the 560. Also wear seansor for brake pads (pads around around somewhere), clip to hold visor on and 1st gear start module that I will use that switch in the fader position.
Owners manual. is for a USA edition, but was only about $12 on ebay. Keeping my eye out for a UK spec one.
Hood pads for both W126s. Can't remember which one is in the photo, I think the coupe one.
- Thread Starter
- #24
Yes it has a quite nice Alpine unit with bluetooth phone, usb in, mp3 cd etc.
- Thread Starter
- #25
Last night I went to move the SEC and noticed a rather large puddle of petrol under the car. It is coming from near the fuel pumps. I had already purchased a new fuel filter so I will replace all the hoses. Will need to look up the part numbers for the W126 fuel hoses.
- Thread Starter
- #28
Went to look at the fuel leak situation last night on the 560. Have been wanting to do this for about 2 weeks but the weather hasn’t motivated me to go and work on the car.
First thing I noticed was when I pushed the car out of the way there was a major puddle of ATF.
Looks like it may be coming from this fitting that has two lines going to it.
It’s odd though, as the car wasn’t leaking when I was using it every day, but was low on trans fluid when I got it.
Looking at the fuel leak one of the pumps was leaking and the hose from the filter to the hard line looked really bad, hacked for the wrong fuel filter. I changed the leaking pump and filter but I was unable to change the line as I could not get my spanners to it.
There is a bmw specialist pushing distance from my place so they are going to do this hose for me. I don’t want to damage the hard line.
First thing I noticed was when I pushed the car out of the way there was a major puddle of ATF.
Looks like it may be coming from this fitting that has two lines going to it.
It’s odd though, as the car wasn’t leaking when I was using it every day, but was low on trans fluid when I got it.
Looking at the fuel leak one of the pumps was leaking and the hose from the filter to the hard line looked really bad, hacked for the wrong fuel filter. I changed the leaking pump and filter but I was unable to change the line as I could not get my spanners to it.
There is a bmw specialist pushing distance from my place so they are going to do this hose for me. I don’t want to damage the hard line.
Hi Bryce, have just come across this thread. Remember, I had no internet for two months thanks to my friendly and efficient server Optus, and as well you hadn't mentioned the car to me previously - not that you had to.
By the look of things, there are a few matters that you will have to attend to, and you already have given us a pretty clear summary of what's required. The last shown picture is not too promising, but I am sure that you will remedy all of the items that don't look 100% or, at least show some fairly serious use by previous owner(s).
The transmission oil on the floor is not unusual when a car is parker unused for a few days. It's probably only just a minor leak, but will have to be remedied sooner or later. Finally, congrats. on the purchase - these Coupes are just magically styled, and one gets a lot of car for the money. Regards Styria
By the look of things, there are a few matters that you will have to attend to, and you already have given us a pretty clear summary of what's required. The last shown picture is not too promising, but I am sure that you will remedy all of the items that don't look 100% or, at least show some fairly serious use by previous owner(s).
The transmission oil on the floor is not unusual when a car is parker unused for a few days. It's probably only just a minor leak, but will have to be remedied sooner or later. Finally, congrats. on the purchase - these Coupes are just magically styled, and one gets a lot of car for the money. Regards Styria
Patrick_R
Grand Master
Great looking car Bryce.
Congratulations.
I like the wheels, it suits it and the tinted windows are cool as well.
A couple of questions.
Where did you buy the gears to fix your odometer?
What do you use to condition your seats?
I have heard that the cam lobe oiler tubes are important to change also?
Can valve guide seals be done without removing the heads?
Many thanks in advance.
Congratulations.
I like the wheels, it suits it and the tinted windows are cool as well.
A couple of questions.
Where did you buy the gears to fix your odometer?
What do you use to condition your seats?
I have heard that the cam lobe oiler tubes are important to change also?
Can valve guide seals be done without removing the heads?
Many thanks in advance.
- Thread Starter
- #31
I got it back in about Sept/Oct. We discussed it breifly at the RR event, but tht was a while back now! At the time you were hoping to have your internet back to check it out on TK, but optus screwed you around for months!
Patrick R said:
I got my gears from garagistic.com, they seem the cheapest. Best if you dismantle your instrument cluster first to check what gears you have to get the right ones.
I use Zymol, as I find it works well and is well priced per bottle.
On the tubes, interesting, i've always just heard the ends. I will check on this.
The seals can be done without removing the heads, but the guides need the heads removed. I am hoping seals will be enough.
- Thread Starter
- #32
Got the 560 back with the fuel hose fixed. Cost $140 so I am satisfied with that. It would have taken me hours and hours to do it myself.
The place I took it to mostly has BMWs in there, but the guy used to work for Mercedes back when these cars were new.
Need to look at that kick down cable o ring. Has anyone done this before?
The place I took it to mostly has BMWs in there, but the guy used to work for Mercedes back when these cars were new.
Need to look at that kick down cable o ring. Has anyone done this before?
Patrick_R
Grand Master
Thanks for the reply Bryce.
Keen to hear your findings.
Keen to hear your findings.
- Thread Starter
- #34
Had a few minutes this morning so fixed something that was annoying me, a broken visor clip.
Changed the wiper blades too, makes a big difference.
I also had another go at removing the chrome wheel arch trims. I really don't like them but they are glued on so tight I will probably ruin the paint removing them.
Changed the wiper blades too, makes a big difference.
I also had another go at removing the chrome wheel arch trims. I really don't like them but they are glued on so tight I will probably ruin the paint removing them.
Patrick_R
Grand Master
Bryce,
I have seen some horrible paint and panel damage done to a Silver Shadow removing chrome wheelarch moulds.
I would leave them be mate.
I have seen some horrible paint and panel damage done to a Silver Shadow removing chrome wheelarch moulds.
I would leave them be mate.
- Thread Starter
- #37
yeah I was coming to a similar conclusion. Looks like I am stuck with them.
Patrick_R
Grand Master
If your paint is original, heating in small sections may work, if not, I’ve seen it rip paint off.
The panel beaters I use for trucks use a 2 person method.
Heat (but most times used cold) and use heavy fishing line with 2 small t handles tied to each end (like a survival wire wood saw) and use the fishing line to “saw” up and down following the direction of the trim or badge.
I hope the description sounds ok.
It takes forever, so X 4 would probably put me off.
The panel beaters I use for trucks use a 2 person method.
Heat (but most times used cold) and use heavy fishing line with 2 small t handles tied to each end (like a survival wire wood saw) and use the fishing line to “saw” up and down following the direction of the trim or badge.
I hope the description sounds ok.
It takes forever, so X 4 would probably put me off.
- Thread Starter
- #39
My car has gone in to have this work done today and I asked about the tubes, apparently its just the ends that need doing.
Its covered pretty well here:
Patrick_R
Grand Master
Hi Bryce,
Good video, please let us know how the job went, seems a pretty quick job on each bank.
Are you still getting the valve stem seals done also?
Good video, please let us know how the job went, seems a pretty quick job on each bank.
Are you still getting the valve stem seals done also?
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