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This is my daily driver 1974 euro spec 350SE. If I travel at speed (>100km/h), the transmission pushes fluid out of its breather until its about 0.5 litres below the minimum mark. As expected, due to being low on fluid, shift quality is then poor. If I refill the trans up to the max mark...

Any help is appreciated, I am rebuilding a 722.002 trans from a 1980 W116 350SE euro spec. The lock ring on B1 drum broke and came out in pieces which is what prompted the rebuild. Everything else inside checks out nicely. I made the mistake of engaging the services of a 'specialist' to help...

The loose piece retrieved appears to be part of one of a locking ring. I then removed the filter and valve body to see if I could fish out any more bits : Some more bits were duly found : Removing the reverse-gear actuator piston revealed more debris, plus damage to the piston caused by...

I am about to reinstall a freshly rebuilt engine into a W116 350SE, and in discussion with the owner, we agreed that it would make sense to provide the transmission with a new filter. Due diligence also dictated that I wanted to replace the radial torque converter seal, and front pump seal...

Of late, I've become something of the 'go-to' guy for older benzes in our club. So I've been quiet on the forums. I thought it may interest people to hear what I've done recently. Projects completed in the last few months : a) W126 500SE (late spec car) This is a nice clean car with no...

I will assume that is in AUS$, if so, those prices are around 4 to 5 times higher than what I've been quoted here in South Africa at the dealer. On the other hand, I recently scored this on ebay : All NOS, except the trunk handle, which the seller suggested might be 'low miles' item...

styria, the car drives well. It is incredibly free revving. At idle, a modest tap of the pedal sends the engine to red-line. On the road, torque is a bit disappointing - even compared to my 280SE, but it revs cleanly and comes alive above 3500rpm, when it really gets some urge. The engine...

Ah styria, I think my explanation was not clear. Its not my car. The owner had a front accident about 3 and a half years ago, and subsequent to that, the car stood for 3 years before we towed it to my workshop. He has commissioned me to sort out all mechanical and cosmetic aspects. Prior...

John, that display screen is typical of what is found at laser alignment shops, and has been commonplace here for at least 10 years. Typical brands are Hunter or Bean.

The big moment - start-up after 3 years of hibernation. Smoke is due to ATF I primed the cylinders with. And the first drive - to quench a 3 year thirst. Getting some idea of the chassis misalignment : Lower control arm bushes are collapsed :

some nice new treats :

paintwork spot repairs :

I thought it would be time for an update : I finished dealing with the rust in the battery tray area and reassembled : Got that left rear quarter primed up and painted. it looks a bit wierd because I gave it a blow over of thin gloss black to protect it until all the colour is painted...

Styria, both of my cars are euros and lack that EGR stuff.

the 6.9 sure doesn't seem all that well thought out. Remember the LHD version is by far the more numerous, and therefore the version most design effort would have been focussed on. The front levelling valve is on the opposite side to that on RHD cars - so there are like 4 or 5 lines coming...

styria, I have never had K-jet injectors cleaned. My injection specialist refuses to clean K-jet injectors, saying it doesn't work. He tests them, and inevitably, by the time one goes for the test, they almost all fail. Now days I don't even bother with the test, since the test costs 25% of...

I'm hoping Parks has some comments here - I'm assisting a friend in the process of re-trimming his R107 450SL 1979. He is wanting to buy the pre-cut-and-stitched GAHH leather seat covers. Is there any difference between the requirements of our RHD cars and the LHD US market for which GAHH...

Overtightening when cold to prevent the need to retorque sounds like highly dubious, bark yard type technique. Its likely to distort the heads. I would stick to the standard MB torque spec. The Aus 1980 workshop manual says : For a 100.985 engine : Cylinder head bolts : 90Nm on a cold...

Both of my 6.9's had head bolts that were finger-tight when I last checked. I would check them. It only takes an hour or so.