Patrick_R
Grand Master
All the clutches and bands actually look quite ok.
How is she shifting now, as smooth as a gravy sandwich?
How is she shifting now, as smooth as a gravy sandwich?
560sec ece
- Thread starter c107
- Start date
- Thread Starter
- #142
Yes much better.All the clutches and bands actually look quite ok.
How is she shifting now, as smooth as a gravy sandwich?
Before it would not be very happy when cold. resistance in reverse and it would erractically shift at times, sometimes smoothly, sometimes banging into gear. Not it works really well.
it's 5 years old! LOL
Congratulations!...
One of the prettiest Benzes ever!
- Thread Starter
- #145
Yes i've now owned this car 5 years - time has flown!
- Thread Starter
- #146
One of the reasons I did the transmission instead of limping it along for another year or two, Is that I plan on driving the car to Melbourne in November. I wanted the peace of mind that it would get me there and back happily.
Last edited:
Patrick_R
Grand Master
Can’t argue with that mate.
- Thread Starter
- #148
Fitted a new drag link, after making the mistake of not checking that the RHD part is different to the LHD part and now had the car aligned for the drive to melbourne.
Glad I got it done, as my hoist blew a gasket soon after and sent fluid everywhere. Will have to look into getting it serviced.
Glad I got it done, as my hoist blew a gasket soon after and sent fluid everywhere. Will have to look into getting it serviced.
BenzBoy
Grand Master
That's a pretty funky garage you have ...
Patrick_R
Grand Master
Agree, funky is a good word, cool comes to mind also.
- Thread Starter
- #152
A few more things before I drive the car to Melbourne:
1) SLS fluid flush
before
Removed the old fluid, refilled and started the flush. Flow is low so an easy one person job. ZHM is cheap at sparesbox
changed the filter while I was there as it was a bit dirty.
After flush, fluid is a much better colour.
1) SLS fluid flush
before
Removed the old fluid, refilled and started the flush. Flow is low so an easy one person job. ZHM is cheap at sparesbox
changed the filter while I was there as it was a bit dirty.
After flush, fluid is a much better colour.
Patrick_R
Grand Master
Good bit of work there Bryce.
- Thread Starter
- #155
Did rear speakers last night too.
W126 front speakers
I'm taking my 560SEC on a long road trip in a couple of weeks. I've never really been especially happy with the sound from the speakers, particularly from m
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W126 rear speakers
I had previously replaced the front speakers in my 1987 560SEC. Now it was time to look at the rears. As I outlined in the article about the front speake
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- Thread Starter
- #156
Back in January, I went to drive my 560SEC. It was parked in the corner of my garage so I needed full lock to get the car out. I noticed that I lost power steering, so I got out of the car to check the belt.
I was surprised to see the engine running, but the belts were stationary, including the crank pully and harmonic balancer. They would occasionally move when the car was revved.
I realized that I couldn't' drive the car in that state, and I was heading overseas in a week, so I put the car back in the garage.
When I returned, I booked the car into my mechanic. On the day it was due, I got up early, before 6am and called the NRMA for a tow, wanting to get in before the rush of people who had a flat battery to get to work.
Took about 90 minutes for them to come, and so with about 20 minutes to go (they have quite a nice app) I went to get the car out onto the street.
Only problem was that since I started it 6 weeks earlier with no alternator, the battery was no flat. Enter the 240D, which was able to jump start it. The 240D is actually quite good for this, as while it only has a 55amp alternator, it uses pretty much no power once running, so you get the entire amount of charging current down the jump leads.
I got the car out onto the street and then turned it off, as with no water pump I didn't want to overheat it. The tow truck soon took it away and I followed in the 240D, about the only time a 240D is faster than an ECE 560SEC.
Once the problem was diagnosed the prognosis was not good.
The crank pully and the harmonic balancer bolt to a sort of flange and it had cracked and had destroyed the woodruff key that holds it in place and done some damage to end of the crankshaft.
The worst case scenario was a new crank, but we wanted to try other things first.
I sourced a second hand flange to start with.
This replaced the broken part, but the woodruff key slot was damaged to the point where a new key would not work. The new flange also had to be slightly modified as the ruined woodruff key had sort of melted onto the end of the crank making it thicker at the inner end. To fit it, my mechanic got in the guy who does the thread repairs to cars for him, and they drilled a hole to insert a dowl to hold it in place.
This is the last update I got on friday, so I assume its all going together and I'll have the car back soon.
I was surprised to see the engine running, but the belts were stationary, including the crank pully and harmonic balancer. They would occasionally move when the car was revved.
I realized that I couldn't' drive the car in that state, and I was heading overseas in a week, so I put the car back in the garage.
When I returned, I booked the car into my mechanic. On the day it was due, I got up early, before 6am and called the NRMA for a tow, wanting to get in before the rush of people who had a flat battery to get to work.
Took about 90 minutes for them to come, and so with about 20 minutes to go (they have quite a nice app) I went to get the car out onto the street.
Only problem was that since I started it 6 weeks earlier with no alternator, the battery was no flat. Enter the 240D, which was able to jump start it. The 240D is actually quite good for this, as while it only has a 55amp alternator, it uses pretty much no power once running, so you get the entire amount of charging current down the jump leads.
I got the car out onto the street and then turned it off, as with no water pump I didn't want to overheat it. The tow truck soon took it away and I followed in the 240D, about the only time a 240D is faster than an ECE 560SEC.
Once the problem was diagnosed the prognosis was not good.
The crank pully and the harmonic balancer bolt to a sort of flange and it had cracked and had destroyed the woodruff key that holds it in place and done some damage to end of the crankshaft.
The worst case scenario was a new crank, but we wanted to try other things first.
I sourced a second hand flange to start with.
This replaced the broken part, but the woodruff key slot was damaged to the point where a new key would not work. The new flange also had to be slightly modified as the ruined woodruff key had sort of melted onto the end of the crank making it thicker at the inner end. To fit it, my mechanic got in the guy who does the thread repairs to cars for him, and they drilled a hole to insert a dowl to hold it in place.
This is the last update I got on friday, so I assume its all going together and I'll have the car back soon.
ProfessorExperimental
Aristocrat
Fwiw in an engineering sense I think a dowel pin is better than a woodruff key. The key will always bear the load on two edges in the rectangular slot, and an edge and a point in the secant slot, so stress concentration is guaranteed as soon as the vlamping force of The Big Fat Nut isn't enough or, gasp, isn't used at all by design (dunno if that applies here, hope not, mercedes engineers not being known for poor training etc).
Assuming a strong enough dowel you should be able to virtually drive the accessory belt indefinitely with the BFN finger tight by comparison, as the dowel will just try and gently stretch the flange collar (which I assume has the crank pulley around it as a further constraint as well).
Assuming a strong enough dowel you should be able to virtually drive the accessory belt indefinitely with the BFN finger tight by comparison, as the dowel will just try and gently stretch the flange collar (which I assume has the crank pulley around it as a further constraint as well).
- Thread Starter
- #158
This is the old flange.
The guy who did it does this mod to American V8’s that get a supercharger. It puts too much load on the crank otherwise.
Ultimately it should be stronger than new but the down side is the dowl needs to be drilled out if you want to replace the front crank seal
The guy who did it does this mod to American V8’s that get a supercharger. It puts too much load on the crank otherwise.
Ultimately it should be stronger than new but the down side is the dowl needs to be drilled out if you want to replace the front crank seal
- Thread Starter
- #159
More detailed write up:
M117 Crank Pully
Back in late January, I went to take my 560SEC out for a drive. I immediately noticed that I had a very odd feeling with the power steering - it was cutting i
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So when are you fitting the supercharger?More detailed write up:
M117 Crank Pully
Back in late January, I went to take my 560SEC out for a drive. I immediately noticed that I had a very odd feeling with the power steering - it was cutting iwww.classicjalopy.com
Seems rude not to given the newly installed latent capability
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