Wanted to Buy: 350 or 450SLC Feb/March 2022

[APEXbenz]

Hi everyone, I know this is a bit of a long shot especially with the timeframe I'm looking at but I am receiving an inheritance in late February, early March & am desperately wanting to buy a decent quality 1973+ (K-Jetronic) 350SLC or (if the 350 isn't available, a 450SLC.
I have always wanted one & after doing my "Mercedes Apprenticeship" on W126 & W123 vehicles, I think I'm ready for the "forever car" now.
So if you or anyone you know has a rust free, reasonable SLC they're thinking about selling, I might just be the perfect home for it. You can rest assured it'll be very well taken care of.
I'm based in Melbourne (Vic) and am willing to travel for the right car.

 

[c107]

Good luck with your search.

Just FYI, K-Jet is 1976-1980.
D-Jet is 1971-1975

If you are keen on a K jet car, then you'll likely to be buying a 450 as there were very few privately imported K jet 350s and the offical ones were D-Jet only. There are a few private import 380s out there more than 350s.

Having owned an SLC since 2003, the biggest thing you want to look for is rust. year, engine etc all secondary.

Bryce

 

[APEXbenz]

This is all great information & I welcome any similar suggestions for my search.
I don't know why I had it in my head that I wanted a 350 but I'm happy to alter the dream to a 450.
The reason K-Jetronic over D-Jetronic is because having worked extensively on early model W126's and late model W116's I am super comfortable & familiar with the system & now I'm currently working on a late model W126 with KE-Jetronic the adjustment to the different system has not been difficult but far from easy & I'm assuming the difference between D & K would be an even more difficult adjustment.
So they're prone to rust?
Are we talking in the usual W123 type places (firewall, footwells, rear windshield frame etc) or do they have their own selection?
I'm looking at a budget of around $20,000 give or take, in your opinions will that be sufficient to secure a decent, rust free 450SLC? I don't mind if there's steering & suspension work to do, am happy to do cosmetics, ok with ignition & injection system work...not so comfortable with the more inner engine kind of thing like valve stem seals, piston rings etc.

 

[c107]

The K-Jet system is much simpler than D-Jet, and the differences between K and D are far more extensive than K and KE. KE is basically K Jet with some electronic enhancements. Its still at its heart a mechanical system. D-Jet is 60s era electronic system, actually far closer to modern fuel injection. There is a lot more to sort out, as it has an ECU, MAP sensors and so on. Plus there are plenty of parts that are no longer available so rebuilt and used is your likely option. Having said all that I would not rule out a D-Jet car if its not rusty and in your budget. They have more power and better throttle response so there are advantages.

107s are more rust prone than 123s in my view. They are more like the 114 and 116 in that regard. The main areas to check:

- Front and rear screen aperture. The rear is nearly always rusty.
- Firewall
- front chassis rails
- sills
- floors
- boot lid edge
- boot floor

With all that, if the budget is $20k and you want a rust free car you're probably buying a car that needs a lot of mechanical or cosmetic work. For this reason you may want to expand your search and include the earlier cars that sometimes sell a little cheaper, as well as the 280SLC. Nice ones go for well over $40k these days.

Bear in mind that if you buy a car that needs interior work, main things like seat covers and so on are all available and can be done. But other trim is often unique to the 107 and hard to source.

 

[APEXbenz]

So it looks like I'll be increasing my budget by around double.
That's ok, it's still only a drop in the ocean of what I've been fortunate enough to have been left but I am so glad you've given me all of this advice, I tend to get carried away when looking at potential cars to purchase & miss the most obvious things.
Invisible (or easily hidden) rust is what concerns me the most...the dreaded firewall rot like some of the W123's get is something that would absolutely break my heart.
Please keep the advice coming & if anyone else wants to chime in with other advice, please bring it on!!

 

[c107]

A few other things to think about.
V8 engines require timing chains at regular intervals. I've heard both 100k and 150k. Guides, camshaft oilers and tensioner should be done at the same time.
Higher mileage V8s will require valve stem seals and potentially heads off to replace valve guides and seats.

SLCS were sold with Leather or Velour and never MB-Tex. If it has MB-Tex or cloth front seats, they have been pinched from an R107.

 

[c107]

This may be worth a look.

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Its a 280SLC, so cheaper than a v8 and the condition looks very nice from the photos at least.

 

[Patrick_R]

Hi Bryce.

I don’t have/use Facebook.
Can you pl are let me know the asking price?

 

[c107]

Hi Bryce.

I don’t have/use Facebook.
Can you pl are let me know the asking price?

$33,000
Its listed as Aussie delivery, so likely a late 75 first registered in 76.

 

[Patrick_R]

Thank you

 

[Styria]

There is a lot to like about this car. Lovely condition of [paint although I can't be sure about its colour. Seats appear to be in faultless condition although I think the upholstery is probably new.

I would not be put off by the car having been fitted with the six cylinder engine - in fact, it's probably my preference over the V8 models. The sixes are hardy warriors and probably almost as fast as the V8s on the open road - in fact, top speed is almost identical but only of academic interest on account of speed limits. A further advantage with the sixes is the additional under bonnet space - much more user friendly, and I would daresay that the six would be easier on petrol. Probably mileage as low as possible is desirable. Avoid cars with rust, or those that have lived near any of the beach suburbs. Parks and I have had some real clangers going through our hands. Regards Styria

 

[Styria]

Just spotted the car on Facebook - great looking car, perhaps somewhat on the pricey side. Mileage is okay, check colour of oil, Oil Pressure reading and check engagement of gears engaging forward and reverse, primarily when hot. Let car idle for five to ten minutes, and then have the vendor rev it whilst observing exhaust emissions. Regards Styria

 

[APEXbenz]

Sorry about the late reply.... I've been offline a while.
I don't mind the M110 at all, in fact I'm very familiar with it having worked on them in W116 & worked & owned W126 + W123 chassis fitted with the beautifully balanced, DOHC straight 6.
I'm not on FB either, does anyone know if it's still available?

 

[c107]

Sorry about the late reply.... I've been offline a while.
I don't mind the M110 at all, in fact I'm very familiar with it having worked on them in W116 & worked & owned W126 + W123 chassis fitted with the beautifully balanced, DOHC straight 6.
I'm not on FB either, does anyone know if it's still available?

Still listed!

The advantage of this car is that it should have the full 185hp M110, not the detuned engine of the later cars.