M100 oil filters

[BenzBoy]

Just to give you a perspective Tim, my 45oSE has had an oil and filter change every 3000kms all its life. That is, 95 oil and filter changes. Now if we allow $100 (approx) for each change, then the costy has been $9,500. If the changes had been done at every 6000kms then the cost for the past 32 years would be $4750. As the previous owner had sent the car for a full MB service every 3000kms before I bought it he must have spent at least $36,000 on service costs if I allwo $500 per service in today's money. Of course it was probably more...
Regards,
Brian

 

[WGB]

I am not sure that a 6.9 in good condition driven regularly with good oil would suffer any problems with 15,000 km oil change interval due to the dispersal in the 12 litres or so of oil in the system .

Quite different for the ones "less often driven".

Modern Benzes are back to 25,000 km oil change intervals but oil removed from a petrol Benz at 12,500 (I do my own intermediate oil change in my E500 and ML 320 CDI) still looks like new.

What are the wear points anyway - likely all timing chain related - and in an M100 or M117 that is only a few hundred dollars if you replace the chain yourself.

Different with the newer aluminium engines with more precious bores in nikasil or the newer improved coating used in AMG cars and next years 3 litre diesel.

Bill

 

[Styria]

I believe that applies to cigarette packaging - not to motor oil.
Regards,
Brian

Hi BenzBoy, precisely my point - it was just all tongue in cheek, and I certainly meant to be sarcastic, having a swipe at "Big Brother' telling us what to do, or better still 'not to do'. I smoked fifty a day, for fifty years, and gave up three and a half years ago without the aid of anti depressants D), cold turkey, and all only because I wanted to. Still alive today - in case no-one had noticed. Regards Styria

N.B. Anyway, how many of us are influenced by the packaging of the containers ? Plain olive green ? I bet the cars will still go even if we stuck the K-Mart special into our engines.

 

[Styria]

Hi Bill, getting back to your fifteen thousand kms. oil changes for your 6.9 - I tried this once, and honestly the brown syrup, that came out like thin, dirty soup, convinced me to never wait that long again. That was Mobil1, at a time when it cost about $65.00 for five liters, but I have changed back to minerals mainly on account of the cost factor.

Just as a matter of interest, Bill, since buying your 6.9 from AMG 69, how many kilometers have you travelled in that car since that time ? Especially, considering that you have your E500 (?) as well as the ML500. Regards Styria

 

[WGB]

I would have to check the records but my 6.9 has done about 11,500km in the last four years (Purchased 23-09-07) - without a single "failure to proceed".

In the meantime my ML500 did 65,000 in 3 years, my E500 has done 24,000(In under 1 year - I still love the drive) and that doesn't include the mileage I have driven in my wife's ML320 CDI or my BA Falcon (about 50,000 km in four years).

I drive close to 40,000 km per year but spread over several cars.

Bill

 

[260ebenz]

Hi Bill, getting back to your fifteen thousand kms. oil changes for your 6.9 - I tried this once, and honestly the brown syrup, that came out like thin, dirty soup, convinced me to never wait that long again. That was Mobil1, at a time when it cost about $65.00 for five liters, but I have changed back to minerals mainly on account of the cost factor.

Just as a matter of interest, Bill, since buying your 6.9 from AMG 69, how many kilometers have you travelled in that car since that time ? Especially, considering that you have your E500 (?) as well as the ML500. Regards Styria

$65 for Mobil1 what year was that Styria?

I was at Super Cheap today new store at Nelson Bay Mobil1 was $95 for 5ltrs.

Castrol, Shell & Valvoline prices not to bad and Penrite was a good price.

Penrite 15W40 5ltrs recommened for 1990 vehicles onwards was $45.

 

[Helmet]

$65 for Mobil1 what year was that Styria?

It was probably 1990

 

[Oversize]

As I said I can't justify that price considering it's no thicker than water and would probably cause alarming noises and additional external oil leaks. I'd much prefer to buy middle-of-the-road oil (ie not the cheapest, but not the dearest either)....

 

[260ebenz]

Previous experiences with Penrite oils was great.

Going to use the Penrite 15W40 next oil change $45 each I will need two bottles 260E needs 6.5ltrs for an oil change.

I just hope for $45 each the Penrite is not thicker than water I only want to use good oil for my Mercedes.

 

[Oversize]

I changed the oil and filter in Blue Flame recently and after jacking it up on a level surface, I dropped the engine sump plug, engine tank plug, oil filter housing and also removed the pipe at the bottom of the oil cooler (Euro). The front spoiler was removed to avoid oil from the cooler going everywhere. I needed three containers and a drip tray, so oil wouldn't cover the barn floor. The 15L container went under the engine sump, a 10L under the oil cooler and another where the filter housing bolts up. The drip tray went under the oil tank. I intended to let it drain over night, but it ended up being a couple of days, as I wasn't sure when it was done last and I had other things more urgent. Any longer and the spiders and dust would've moved in!

Here's the oil filter housing after a clean:



And all the bits that go with a thorough oil change on a 6.9:



Note that the oil tank plug has seen better days and will be replaced the next time:



I bet many of you didn't know there was an 'O' ring in there. And sadly a new one isn't supplied with a filter kit.



It's almost hard to believe there's a washer on the end of the shaft. Obviously it's been a while since it was replaced:



Told you:



And where's the damn washer for the tank plug? Hmmm??



This comes in VERY handy:



And to complete the whole job... One of these:



And one of these:

 

[Styria]

Hi Mark, that's excellent work that you're doing, and even better still that you are prepared to spend time to detail your work on topklasse. Thank you. Getting back to your post. I certainly wasn't aware of the internal 'O' ring, so it proves that you never stop learning. One of the things I like to do is to wash out the oil tank with high pressure kerosene, with both drain plugs in place. After about one to two liters, I drain both the tank and the small sump, and then blow out both with compressed air. That however, is just something to satisfy my personal satisfaction. Regards Styria

 

[Oversize]

Red Bull has a little gunk in the very bottom of the tank which I'd like to remove. I've used a small seal pick to remove most of it, but I'm sure there'll be more that I can't reach.

Styria exactly how do you achieve "high pressure" kero? Do you have a device connected to an air nozzle that syphons 2L of kero?

I must admit I'm a little hesitant to put kero into the oil tank as I may loosen something and the internal baffles may prevent it being removed. But I'd be even more concerned that kero and contaminents would end up in the engine and that it wouldn't drain back out through the engine sump plug.

BTW the washer with locator tags is missing from Red Bull's oil filter assembly. Does anyone think it'd be a problem without it? I'd suggest the spring would dig into the underside of the oil filter cartridge, but the old one didn't look too bad....

 

[Styria]

Hi Mark, I use an engine degreaser gun filled with kerosene. I know what you're saying regarding the dislodging of gunk, especially in the tank, and that is the reason why I can comfortably go through four liters of Kero, just drowning the whole system. By high pressure air blasting the little sump, usually all Kero comes out without any problem. Also consider that the system holds twelve liters of oil - even if there was a slight trace of Kero in the system, that large quantity of oil would take care of it.

Regarding the washer, it'd be best to have one in place - just for peace of mind. Regards Styria

 

[Oversize]

Styria I've ordered a new washer and will have to wait until it arrives from Germany.... I also tracked down the 'O' ring in the picture below and have several on order. What concerns me is the wear on the bottom of the housing, where the securing bolt washer has cut into the surface. Should I be worried and risk machining it flat? I'm thinking of just putting it back on and dealing with it later if it leaks...

BTW I just bought an air powered liquid sprayer and plan to have some fun with 4L of kero!

 

[Styria]

Mark, it would be prudent, and easy enough, to just lightly file the surface. That should do it, with the addition of the new copper washer. Regards Styria

N.B. Hang on, filing may not be all that easy, as the surface appears to be recessed. Is that right ? If so, just use the new washer and see how it pans out. It should be alright.

 

[Oversize]

The O rings just arrived; part number A001 997 8548. The tank plugs are N007 604 014 110. And here's the beauty of MB; the ability to still buy parts from the manufacturer, for a car that's over 32 years old!!! Ford and Holden struggle at 5 years..... Over 10 and there's almost no chance.

Styria I believe the recess has been caused by years of overtightening and perhaps the wrong washers (too hard). However the one supplied in the kit also appears to be too hard (steel?). I don't think I've seen copper used on the canister bolt before, as they're usually too wide. Aluminum might be a better choice, as it won't bite into the base of the canister.

It does beg the question; are copper and aluminum washers interchangeable (assuming they're the same size)? I've noticed over the years that MB has used a mixture of both. Or does copper go hard over time and need to be re-annealed??

 

[Oversize]

I noticed that the new tank plugs do not contain a magnet like the original. They were probably fitted to catch small metal particles during the early years of the engine's life, but it'd still be nice to have the added security...

 

[Tony66_au]

Some cars require that the sump plug be replaced every 2nd or so service and I suspect its because the plugs do get damaged in service.

The alloy plug will be cheaper than brass or copper.

 

[Oversize]

Looks like my source for filters has dried up; what now?? What's the cheapest and most reliable source?? Seems like Imparts and HSY no longer stock them and they're not even on back order. I called MB and without a VIN they gave me a price of $150!!!! I don't think the parts guy even knew what a 6.9 was!

 

[260ebenz]

$150 for an oil filter seriously they are joking!

Mann oil filter for the 300SE was $25 last service 2000kms ago.