Hi Styria,
Yes I set the crankshaft to 60 degrees ATDC at cylinder 1, both are critical to correct pump timing.
The regulator linkage is set up by adjusting the length of the rods connecting the main throttle arm to the throttle body and injection pump levers. The pump has a position indicator as shown below
To indicate the position at the throttle body I attach a protractor to the lever and use a pointer made from coat hanger wire!
The relationship between the throttle body and pump angles is not linear, for example when the throttle body is at 2.5 degrees the pump must be between 4.4 and 5.1 degrees, at 20 degrees on the throttle body we need between 28 and 31 degrees at the pump, the differences then narrow untill 80 degrees on the throttle is 79-82 on the pump. The geometry of the linkage allows this non linear relationship so long as the rods are the correct lengths. The challenge is setting these right while making sure you still acheive full throttle openings with your foot flat to the floor and the kickdown switch activated.
The first time I set mine I found I only had about 80% throttle so adjusted to get full throttle, the difference was pronounced, as were the chirps from the tyres
I to am interested to see if the car will in fact run at all with this pump, I purchased it from a M-100 group member as good to go but of course with no warranty. It LOOKS in good condition but that means nothing other than it hasn't been tampered with.
Whatever the outcome with this pump the old one was leaking so badly it had to come out. Even the gasket between the pump and the block had evidence of a decent size leak and while it has been sitting on the garage floor it has leaked most of its oil out.
I'm having the old pump rebuilt anyway so if this new one works well I'll have a good spare. It maybe extra work but if it keeps my car on the road I'm happy to gain the experience, it will be easier next time