Patrick_R
Grand Master
Gents,
The more heavy duty and harder pads, are like 50-70% effective when cold compared to the softer OEM pads.
“Generally speaking” these softer OEM compounds are what we normally need as we don’t drive our cars very far or very fast on a daily basis, so this is why they have more bite, right from the get go.
This is more preferable to the average Joe as most cars today are just disposable items, that pretty much only serve one purpose.
For the car enthusiast these harder pads (and then depending on brand and composition) when hot are probably in the vicinity of 200-275% better. Some if not more.
I saw the pics and videos of you crazy gents having your day at the track.
I bet a lot of you suffered from brake fade.
Most of us have probably suffered this, and really know how ones bum hole can super tighten because of it.
I know I have.
The truth behind brake fade is that when brake material becomes super heated (a term we use in the industry for something heated beyond its design capabilities) it starts to emit a super heated gas, which gets trapped in a layer between the brake material (pads or shoes] and gases can be compressed thus we get a gas layer between the brake material and the rotor or drum and no friction happening thus no braking effect.
Let’s not even talk about (just yet) the boiling point of mineral or synthetic brake fluids.
Any fluid can boil at all sorts of different temperatures, and altitudes.
Once it boils in the system, it turns to a gas, and as I mentioned gases can be compressed, where fluids can’t, then you get a spongy or a “long” brake pedal.
With brake fade, you may or may not have noticed (while shitting bricks) that the pedal is a good height, it’s only this tiny layer of gas between the brake material and the rotating component that is compressed.
A lot of performance pads have groves, performance rotors have vent holes or cross drilled.
This is to vent the superheated gas away predominantly, to allow proper contact of the braking components.
Cooling ducts and hoses, rear quarter vents for these super hot gases to escape is all part of very high performance braking systems, typically not for the average Joe.
This is why exotic cars and race cars use carbon fibre and ceramics in their braking systems, as the temps are stratospheric before they become super heated or change composition thus reducing braking efficiency.
This is why we now only use air in truck braking systems, as there is nothing to boil.
We even use special air dryers to remove any moisture (as it can boil] from this compress d air.
So horses for courses I guess.
If you like to play a bit with your more sporty car and enjoy some demon braking, more high performance brake components are suggested.
For more normal driving, yes, the best is the factory OEM components
In regards to the magnetic retarders, you are spot on Braminator.
KERS (Kenetic Energy Recovery System) is purely designed to generate a current for use later, not produce braking.
The giant retarders are purely for braking.
When it comes to trucks, combining these two, is exactly what we are working on at present.
Electric cars (in all their forms we have discussed) can easily generate in all of the stop start driving they do.
We in the truck world really have an issue that trucks that go along way between A & B, don’t have the chance for this regenerative charging and braking.
It’s a constant battle to get the happy medium.
The more heavy duty and harder pads, are like 50-70% effective when cold compared to the softer OEM pads.
“Generally speaking” these softer OEM compounds are what we normally need as we don’t drive our cars very far or very fast on a daily basis, so this is why they have more bite, right from the get go.
This is more preferable to the average Joe as most cars today are just disposable items, that pretty much only serve one purpose.
For the car enthusiast these harder pads (and then depending on brand and composition) when hot are probably in the vicinity of 200-275% better. Some if not more.
I saw the pics and videos of you crazy gents having your day at the track.
I bet a lot of you suffered from brake fade.
Most of us have probably suffered this, and really know how ones bum hole can super tighten because of it.
I know I have.
The truth behind brake fade is that when brake material becomes super heated (a term we use in the industry for something heated beyond its design capabilities) it starts to emit a super heated gas, which gets trapped in a layer between the brake material (pads or shoes] and gases can be compressed thus we get a gas layer between the brake material and the rotor or drum and no friction happening thus no braking effect.
Let’s not even talk about (just yet) the boiling point of mineral or synthetic brake fluids.
Any fluid can boil at all sorts of different temperatures, and altitudes.
Once it boils in the system, it turns to a gas, and as I mentioned gases can be compressed, where fluids can’t, then you get a spongy or a “long” brake pedal.
With brake fade, you may or may not have noticed (while shitting bricks) that the pedal is a good height, it’s only this tiny layer of gas between the brake material and the rotating component that is compressed.
A lot of performance pads have groves, performance rotors have vent holes or cross drilled.
This is to vent the superheated gas away predominantly, to allow proper contact of the braking components.
Cooling ducts and hoses, rear quarter vents for these super hot gases to escape is all part of very high performance braking systems, typically not for the average Joe.
This is why exotic cars and race cars use carbon fibre and ceramics in their braking systems, as the temps are stratospheric before they become super heated or change composition thus reducing braking efficiency.
This is why we now only use air in truck braking systems, as there is nothing to boil.
We even use special air dryers to remove any moisture (as it can boil] from this compress d air.
So horses for courses I guess.
If you like to play a bit with your more sporty car and enjoy some demon braking, more high performance brake components are suggested.
For more normal driving, yes, the best is the factory OEM components
In regards to the magnetic retarders, you are spot on Braminator.
KERS (Kenetic Energy Recovery System) is purely designed to generate a current for use later, not produce braking.
The giant retarders are purely for braking.
When it comes to trucks, combining these two, is exactly what we are working on at present.
Electric cars (in all their forms we have discussed) can easily generate in all of the stop start driving they do.
We in the truck world really have an issue that trucks that go along way between A & B, don’t have the chance for this regenerative charging and braking.
It’s a constant battle to get the happy medium.
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