sean sherry
Master
Early air valve with brass bulb. After repeated searches on the Net I was not able to find any definitive information, either on repairs or if they could be adjusted. So I bought a second hand one to see before I removed mine from under the manifold ( somewhere ) . People talked about tapping them with a hammer, and or, squeezing the bulb. but no information on what the previous operations achieved. Now I know. Maybe this will help others.
Tapping the end plug in reduces the air flow when cold, controlled by the brass bulb. ie., closes up the gap to the movable piston . Squeezing the brass bulb to reduce the internal capacity starts the movement of the piston earlier in the heat range. Should be around 60% I'm reliably told.
My current valve does nothing till over 80% and then is still slow to close. Probably clogged slightly and needs a bulb squeeze.
For the record I have improved mine a bit by squirting some Subaru cleaner down the vacuum hose to the retard system. Not a cure but at least the engine returns to a stable idle when hot, though still a bit slow getting there.
As someone pointed out these units will never be 100% , need electronics for that.......Sean
Tapping the end plug in reduces the air flow when cold, controlled by the brass bulb. ie., closes up the gap to the movable piston . Squeezing the brass bulb to reduce the internal capacity starts the movement of the piston earlier in the heat range. Should be around 60% I'm reliably told.
My current valve does nothing till over 80% and then is still slow to close. Probably clogged slightly and needs a bulb squeeze.
For the record I have improved mine a bit by squirting some Subaru cleaner down the vacuum hose to the retard system. Not a cure but at least the engine returns to a stable idle when hot, though still a bit slow getting there.
As someone pointed out these units will never be 100% , need electronics for that.......Sean