In the course of getting the suspension to raise, it was soon obvious that there was not enough pressure in the system to raise the car in front. The fact that the rear would respond to low normal and high adjustments tended to confuse the issue. Why is the back working, and the front not ? Replacing one component after another, and one at a time, components that I removed from my own 6.9 (Gleaming Beauty - and they had been operative) only resulted in the suspension coming up to a certain height and then.....nothing. It just would not come up to the desired level. ALL TO DO WITH INSUFFICIENT PRESSURE IN THE SYSTEM. We had replaced the pressure regulator, the pressure pump, the front regulator valve - all to no avail ! By this time, after almost three days, the loss of at least five liters of hydraulic oil, and we were just not getting anywhere. The maximum pressure we could achieve was about 135 bars - we needed at least 180odd. We had also replaced the Master Air Cell (fitted a new one) and no success. We were able to establish that the oil was pumped right through the system and back into the tank - so it wasn't staying in the system building up pressure. In the end we decided to separate the front struts from the system completely and once we had eliminated one at a time, the car started to raise. Clearly, the problem lay with the strut - it wasn't holding the pressure, allowing the loss of the 50bars we were short of. Once that faulty strut was closed off from the rest of the system, the car rose immediately - we then connected it up again, and the strut blew the bottom seal big time. It had to be replaced - once done so, the car stayed up.
Just to summarize a little. I have already stressed the importance of the test equipment. It is also important to conduct a leak test on all four struts to establish that leak down leakage is within specifications. That is a time consuming process - all four wheels off, then the car needs to be lowered again to rest on its suspension components, and it is then necessary to disconnect the thin plastic line from the system (not the struts) and check for leakage over a period of some six hours. It is also possible, and almost essential, to check your regulator valves prior to instalment - the check can be carried out with the valve "freed from the car", but connected to the system in general. By trial fitting the valves, one can establish that they are free of leaks, and that they perform the height adjustment functions.
Once you get every component working to its proper capacity, or very close enough, the car will respond almost immediately to any variations in attaining height and also attaining high and normal levels. I have found that there is no need to rev the system unnecessarily, and air locks are also just about non-existent. Even when all components have had to be dismantled and refitted, half a minute of idling, or slight rev increase, will lift the car to its correct level.
Hereunder, pictures of the height level front and rear of Gleaming Beauty - after rectification work on the Pressure Regulator, and a period of standing for two days. I hope that some of the foregoing will destroy some of the myth and criticism levelled at the 6.9. Sure, it can be a little finicky, but once sorted, it will operate very efficiently. In Chris'case with his Astral Siver 6.9, a pressure check should be the first step in sorting the car. It helps to have spares, it helps to be able to understand the system and to follow certain procedures and then have the parts on hand to make the system work. Regards Styria