Windscreens and Seals

[Oversize]

I need a new windscreen for MB3 and just called O'Briens. It appears that the 450 screen is different from the 6.9 one. Can anyone confirm this? I asked about a tinted band & it appears the originals had some type of green tint... Fitment of a new screen is $588 using the old seal. With an aftermarket seal it's $703. I'm a bit worried about the quality of the 'new' seal they'll supply (& how long it's been sitting on their shelf), as they only have one left in stock. I have to take the car to them due to the complexity of the job. There's been a few problems reported on this site regarding the fitment of seals, leaks and rust so I'm treading very carefully. Should I source my own seal and if so from where? Are the genuine ones the best option re fitment and newer stock? I hesitate to ask how much they are; probably another case of if you have to ask, you can't afford it!!!! And I pray there's no rust under there when the old screen's removed.....

 

[John S]

I purchased 'new original' seals from an MB specialist about 15 years ago, moulded corners etc and I had them (F & R) plus a new windscreen fitted by Moore Glass, who supports the NSW club. Within 2 years the rubber looked like the old seals, so my assumption is that the rubber can age while in stock - but how do you know how long it has been held in stock?

If O’Brien’s are supplying seals with moulded corners the seals are probably OK, if the rubber is in one piece bent to shape, just joined to get the correct length, go elsewhere.

However, with the windscreen out check for rust, it will surprise you how far down inside the bodywork you can see with the windscreen out. If there is any rust showing get it fixed properly while you can get to it, no rust killer, grind it out or cut it out as it will save you a fortune later.

 

[Styria]

Hi Mark, I have always steered clear of O'Brien's on account of cost - you should be able to procure supply and fitting at a cost of no more than $320.00. Chances are that the screen has been manufactured in China, and I am quite certain that China would also be the source of an O'Brien supplied unit. The only problem I have ever struck was a screen that must have been affected by faulty packaging (maybe) which resulted in the screen being "greasy" when driving in the rain. The wipers just did not clear the screen and it was impossible to drive the car at night with the lights of oncoming traffic virtually blinding you. I finished up returning the screen.

JohnS. is correct as far as the rubbers are concerned - if the fronts have no corners, simply don't touch the rubber as it will not fit properly and most fitters will refuse to fit the screen.

There is no doubt that 6.9s were fitted with heat resistant glass by Mercedes - it is a feature that's specifically mentioned in their new car brochure. Of course, I had not been aware of this until I checked on spares, with different part numbers being applicable to the various models, i.e. your 450SE (SEL ?) and the 6.9. Presently I am in the process of fitting 6.9 glass (doors only) with a slight green tint to Gleaming Beauty in place of previously tinted glass that she had been fitted with. It could well be that maybe late model 450s were also fitted with the same glass as the 6.9 but I cannot be sure of this. Hope this information helps. Regards Styria

 

[SEL_69L]

Oversize: I am curious as to why you need a new screen. Is it cracked? or is the seal old, and leaking? Often, the body of the car is rusty at this location around the windscreen seal, and more serious repairs are needed.

Over the years, I have had chips filled (by O,Briens) and arc wiper blade scratches removed. I removed the scratches myself, but is a long slow process, using cerium oxide cutting compound, which used to be used for cutting telescope reflector mirrors. It takes a lot of elbow grease and about six hours of cutting back by hand.

Do NOT use a dry electric buff for this job; you will get local heating of the glass, and it will crack. THEN, you will definitely need a new windscreen glass!

There are commercial operators who will remove scratches from windscreen for you, and our business engages them occasionally. They use the same cerium oxide compound, but use a small water cooled electric buff.

 

[BenzBoy]

Are you able to recommend such an operator in the Sydney region?
Regards,
Benz-Boy

 

[SEL_69L]

I'll get the contact details from the guy who visits our business.

 

[Oversize]

I was looking for a repalcement due to a couple of star cracks and a wiper blade scratch. Not sure if they can be repaired, but at the prices I've been quoted for a new screen, it might be the better option. I can't remember if the screen was sandblasted, so I'll have a closer look. If it is I won't have a choice except to track down a replacement and a quality seal....

 

[BenzBoy]

I'll get the contact details from the guy who visits our business.

Thanks. I have a scratch on the driver's door window that may be fixable..
Regarsd,
Benz-Boy

 

[John S]

You can also use toothpaste to polish out scratches, and then finish off with rouge (cerium oxide). For any star cracks you will need the UV curing resin.

Try going over the front and rear windscreens with a sharp razorblade, you may be surprised at how much wax is adhered to the screen from carwashes and from the use of "wash & wax" products.

 

[Fotografa]

A new Genuine MB front windscreen seal is only $145.00. And I have to say, windscreens can be touched up, but if yours has seen more than a few miles and a few years, it's amazing how clean and fresh it is looking through a new screen, it's easy enough to not really notice how bad it is until you see the difference.

 

[SEL_69L]

I was considering johnS's remarks about dirty glass.

With newly built cars awaiting first sale that have been standing with industrial fallout on them, the grime can be such that normal wash 'n wax will not be any good.

The usual method we use is to use a water blaster then scrub the glass with steel wool, saturated with a degreaser, then blast again.

In more severe cases where the glass has a film of calcium build up, we use a spray in one hand of a weak mixture of sulphuric and hydrochloric acid, and a hose in the other. Contact of the acid on the car is not more than 5 seconds. Before cleaning, the glass appears cloudy. In this case, a sponge with detergent is of no effect.

We never use this method on used cars, because the seal of the door window seal against the glass may not be perfect. That is why we use a hose and not a water blaster with acid. I have never seen a used car with a calcium buildup on the windows.

I would never use acid on any car where alloy trim is used, for example, alloy bull bars. Alkasteam (alkaline) damages bull bars as well.

 

[SEL_69L]

BenzBoy: I have the name of the guy who removes scratches from windscreens as part of his business.

His name is John. His busisness name is 'Glass Technology', and his mobile is
0418 672 021. Our business is quite happy with his work.

I know of a 560 SEC thar has quite deep vertical scratches in the driver's door window. The problem here is that there is a piece of embedded metal in the window rubber. In this case, it would be an exercise in futility to remove the scratches until the embedded metal is removed, or the window is rubber is replaced.