W107 350SLC engine mounts

[smueller99au]

Can anyone confirm for me the engine mount number for the 3.5 M116 in a W107 1974? At the moment Autohaus Arizona only have the 4.5 listed. They use an engine mount numbered 107 241 11 13, which I'm inclined to try. If anyone knows the 4.5 and 3.5 are mounted differently then I can save my cash.

Cheers.
Steve.

 

[John S]

Have you asked Autohaus Arizona if the engine mounts are interchangeable?

 

[Fotografa]

Can anyone confirm for me the engine mount number for the 3.5 M116 in a W107 1974? At the moment Autohaus Arizona only have the 4.5 listed. They use an engine mount numbered 107 241 11 13, which I'm inclined to try. If anyone knows the 4.5 and 3.5 are mounted differently then I can save my cash.

Cheers.
Steve.

10724111013 up to chassis number 009849 (which the EPC states is also the same for 450SL's up to chassis 021171) and 1072412313 from chassis number 009850.

So yes. the 350 and 450 used the same engine mounts, just make sure you get the correct ones for your chassis number.

 

[smueller99au]

OK, more questions here. I'm stuffed if I can get any spanner onto the top bolt of the engine mount. Has anyone tried to undo these before? Any tricks? Special spanners, or welded spanners?

Steve.

 

[TJ 450]

Are we talking the rubber engine mounts, or the alloy arm that supports the engine? If it is the four bolts on the arm, then it is very difficult in-situ, but I managed to get them off my M117 with a selection of 13mm ring and combination spanners. The old style "cranked" ring spanners were useful, from memory.

The M116 engine is practically the same in its mounting arrangement.

Tim

 

[smueller99au]

I was meaning the single bolt that holds that alloy arm onto the rubber mount. I just can't get into it. I can latch a ring spanner on the top but then that's it.

Do I have to take the arm off at the engine side instead? And then unbolt the two engine mount holding bolts.

Steve

 

[John S]

I replaced the engine mounts on my 116, but from memory (it was a long while ago) I had to use a long arm Allen key with a lot of leverage. Styria, surely this is one problem you will have dealt with?

 

[TJ 450]

I think the bolt you're talking about is the one that holts the wiring harness into place. I don't think you even need to undo that one, that's the one on top isn't it?

The bolts that attach the arms to the mounts are underneith the crossmember facing apwards. They are 10mm inhex and require a socket attachment, as they are very tight. There is a little cutout for them directly in and above the lower control arm mounting point.

You shouldn't need to remove the arms, unless you want to ensure everything is spotlessly clean under there.

Tim

 

[smueller99au]

Seems like maybe the W116 is setup a little differently to the W107. I've seen the W116 in the book and yeah, you can access it from the bottom. The W107 you need to undo the bolt from the top.

Anyone else got a solution I could try? Gas torch?

 

[TJ 450]

I just had a look at the parts diagram... It does appear to be an ordinary hex bolt from the top. Is the exhaust manifold in the way?

A picture tells a thousand words.

Tim

 

[smueller99au]

I'm overseas just now but as soon as I get home I will take some photos. The haynes manual is particularly ambiguous as always. I've checked the M116/117 merc engine manual and it is also not so clear. Hopefully I don't need to remove the starter motor or anything silly like that.

Actually when I raised the engine slightly the mounts completely separated. So the might be an option - to lift the engine till I can get something in there. BUT, safety is also key - I don't want to sqush my fingers/arms whilst I'm there if the engine drops.

I'll post those photos.

Cheers for all your responses. I have more questions coming...
Steve.

 

[smueller99au]

Just a followup for everyone doing the same.

The engine mounts for the 350SLC are the same as the ones listed for the 450SLC at AutohausAZ.com (part number 1072411113 at US$15 each!). They ended up fitting just fine. It took ages to get the old ones out and line up the socket head bolts for the replacements but once they were done it was all perfect. The same mount was used for left and right side.

It's amazing how much quieter the engine is now - the old mounts were basically metal on metal. Now the engine is sitting back up 15mm higher so the cooling fan doesn't sit on the guard.

Thanks for everyone's input.
Steve

 

[John S]

Did your car still have the pressed metal plate heat shields for the engine mounts?

 

[smueller99au]

Yep. It still had the metal covers that go over the mounts. I didn't replace the shock absorbers though - probably why the engine bounces around a bit.

How important are these shockies? Do they improve anything much? My 300SEL (W109) doesn't even have the mountings for them anymore - someone threw those out long before I got the car. I can certainly feel things shift around up front when I go over bumpy roads - it actually comes back through the accellerator pedal.

Steve.

 

[John S]

Car manufacturers do not like to waste money, so you can be assured that Mercedes put them there, and accepted the extra cost, for a good reason. They allow more flexible mounts while still maintaining stability, so the difference between installed and none should be noticeable.